What insulation should i buy

The R-value is measured by the thickness of the material and how effectively it limits heat transfer. The higher the R-value, the better the resistance to heat loss and the better the savings, too. The amount of insulation you need depends on where you live and how old your home is. Start by checking to see if your home is already insulated. If it is, look at the R-value, and see if you can improve it. Generally, you should get as much insulation as the structure or space allows without obstructing ventilation.

To make your home more energy-efficient, choose an area that tends to let a lot of heat out. Consider starting with your attic. This is typically the most efficient and cost-effective area to insulate. Alternatively, investigate insulating exterior walls, or walls between heated and unheated living spaces, like your garage, or floors above cold areas, like crawlspaces. Before moving forward with insulation, reach out to a certified energy advisor CEA to get an unbiased opinion on your needs.

Your local hydro company can direct you to professionals in your area. Reflective or radiant barriers work differently than most types of insulation, and so its effectiveness is not measured by R-values. While standard insulation reduces heat flow in a home, reflective insulation instead reflects the heat away from the home to prevent heat gain and radiant heat transfer to cooler surfaces indoors.

The insulation is constructed using a reflective barrier like aluminum foil placed over a substrate material like kraft paper or polyethylene bubbles. Homeowners in warmer climates typically place reflective or radiant barriers in the attic between joists, rafters, and beams, since the attic is where most heat enters a home. Installation here, too, can be done without a professional. Disclosure: BobVila. You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY.

Use this guide to determine the type of insulation that's right for you, creating a more comfortable and energy-efficient home. Grab a tape measure and a flashlight to see what kind of insulation you already have in the attic and how deep it is.

Then use the numbers in the chart at right to estimate its R-value. Pull up and dispose of any material that's compressed, water stained, or moldy—it's useless. Owners of houses built before take note: If what you see is lightweight, grainy, loose-looking insulation with shiny flecks, it could be vermiculite from a mine with asbestos deposits. Get it tested, and if necessary, call in a pro to remove and haul it away safely.

The Department of Energy recommends these minimum R-values for unfinished, unconditioned attics. The numbers are based on your house's location and climate zone. Most federal tax credits for weatherizing your house and boosting its energy efficiency expired in But your state's energy office or local utility may offer product rebates, discounts, or other financial incentives for insulating.

See a state-by-state directory of such programs here. Measure your attic's square footage. For loose fill, read labels; each bag lists the required depths for a range of R-values and the number of bags needed to cover 1, square feet at those depths.

For batts or rolls, calculate the number based on the width and length of the product you're using. In either case, get an extra bag or roll—you really don't want to run out when you're almost done putting it in. Gaps in the attic or between the lower floors and the attic will let heated or cooled air escape to the great, unconditioned outdoors, making any insulation you add essentially useless.

Find a diagram of common air leaks here. Here's a quick primer on fixing draft-prone spots. Knock these to-dos off your list to ensure that your insulation will last for years and keep conditioned air where it belongs: inside your house. Covering up the soffit vents with loose fill or batts, which can happen if you stuff insulation along the eaves, is a huge no-no. The airflow from the soffits to the ridge vent keeps the roof cool and prevents ice dams, and the material will block that flow.

For the same reason, insulation shouldn't touch the roof's underside. Staple plastic or foam baffles to the roof sheathing, near the eaves, to keep the material away. Though some batts come with a paper or foil facing that can act as a vapor barrier, Tom Silva prefers to use 6-mil polyethylene sheeting, cut to fit between the joists and with seams sealed by foil tape, to prevent moisture from seeping into insulation.

As in any house, insects and rodents can be a problem. In a few cases, insects and rodents have tunneled throughout the SIPs, and some manufacturers have issued guidelines for preventing these problems, including:. Boric acid-treated insulation panels are also available. These panels deter insects, but are relatively harmless to humans and pets. Because it can be very airtight, a well-built SIP structure may require controlled fresh-air ventilation for safety, health, and performance, and to meet many building codes.

A well-designed, installed, and properly operated mechanical ventilation system can also help prevent indoor moisture problems, which is important for achieving the energy-saving benefits of a SIP structure. Installing Insulation. When hiring a professional certified installer: Obtain written cost estimates from several contractors for the R-value you need, and don't be surprised if quoted prices for a given R-value installation vary by more than a factor of two.

Ask contractors about their experience in installing the product you are considering. Types of Insulation. Type Material Where Applicable Installation Methods Advantages Blanket: batts and rolls Fiberglass Mineral rock or slag wool Plastic fibers Natural fibers Unfinished walls, including foundation walls Floors and ceilings Fitted between studs, joists, and beams.

Concrete block insulation and insulating concrete blocks Foam board, to be placed on outside of wall usually new construction or inside of wall existing homes : Some manufacturers incorporate foam beads or air into the concrete mix to increase R-values Unfinished walls, including foundation walls New construction or major renovations Walls insulating concrete blocks Require specialized skills Insulating concrete blocks are sometimes stacked without mortar dry-stacked and surface bonded.

Insulating cores increases wall R-value. Exterior applications: must be covered with weatherproof facing. High insulating value for relatively little thickness. Can block thermal short circuits when installed continuously over frames or joists. Insulating concrete forms ICFs Foam boards or foam blocks Unfinished walls, including foundation walls for new construction Installed as part of the building structure.

Cores in the blocks are typically filled with concrete to create the structural component of the wall. Insulation is literally built into the home's walls, creating high thermal resistance. Loose-fill and blown-in Cellulose Fiberglass Mineral rock or slag wool Enclosed existing wall or open new wall cavities Unfinished attic floors Other hard-to-reach places Blown into place using special equipment and, although not recommended, sometimes poured in.

Good for adding insulation to existing finished areas, irregularly shaped areas, and around obstructions. Reflective system Foil-faced kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard Unfinished walls, ceilings, and floors Foils, films, or papers fitted between wood-frame studs, joists, rafters, and beams. Suitable for framing at standard spacing. Bubble-form suitable if framing is irregular or if obstructions are present.

Most effective at preventing downward heat flow, effectiveness depends on spacing and number of foils. Rigid fibrous or fiber insulation Fiberglass Mineral rock or slag wool Ducts in unconditioned spaces Other places requiring insulation that can withstand high temperatures HVAC contractors fabricate the insulation into ducts either at their shops or at the job sites.

Can withstand high temperatures. Sprayed foam and foamed-in-place Cementitious Phenolic Polyisocyanurate Polyurethane Enclosed existing wall Open new wall cavities Unfinished attic floors Applied using small spray containers or in larger quantities as a pressure sprayed foamed-in-place product. Structural insulated panels SIPs Foam board or liquid foam insulation core Straw core insulation Unfinished walls, ceilings, floors, and roofs for new construction Construction workers fit SIPs together to form walls and roof of a house.

SIP-built houses provide superior and uniform insulation compared to more traditional construction methods; they also take less time to build. Blanket: Batt and Roll Insulation. Concrete Block Insulation. Foam Board or Rigid Foam. Insulating Concrete Forms. Loose-Fill and Blown-In Insulation. Radiant Barriers and Reflective Insulation Systems.

Rigid Fiber Board Insulation. Types of Foam Insulation. Other available foam insulation materials include: Cementitious Phenolic Polyisocyanurate polyiso Some less common types include Icynene foam and Tripolymer foam. Structural Insulated Panels. Areas of Concern. Learn about the different insulation materials and insulation facings. Insulating the entire building envelope of your home saves money and improves comfort. Building a new energy-efficient home requires carefully selecting where you place and install insulation materials.

Adding insulation to your home is a sound investment that is likely pay for itself quickly in reduced utility bills. Find product information and locate professional services for insulation and air sealing. Blanket: batts and rolls. Fiberglass Mineral rock or slag wool Plastic fibers Natural fibers. Concrete block insulation and insulating concrete blocks.

Foam board, to be placed on outside of wall usually new construction or inside of wall existing homes : Some manufacturers incorporate foam beads or air into the concrete mix to increase R-values. Unfinished walls, including foundation walls New construction or major renovations Walls insulating concrete blocks.